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Thread: My first serious restoration

  1. #11
    ADMINISTRATOR dmcmtk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piffyr View Post
    Congrats! It definitely looks better than it did with the scorching. Dave's right that Micro-Mesh will do a good job of polishing that bowl by hand, but you'll need to start with something more abrasive than 3600 MM (1350-grit U.S.) if you want to completely remove the work scratches from around the rim. Start one "grit step" up from whatever grit you used to do the work and continue in increments until it's well polished.
    Take Anthony's advice. I was being very conservative in what I said, maybe 2400...? What you really want to watch is how the grit you start at affects the color tone of the finish. I always use fairly well worn micro mesh for this type of polishing just to be careful.

  2. #12
    PSU Member Piffyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmcmtk View Post
    Take Anthony's advice. I was being very conservative in what I said, maybe 2400...? What you really want to watch is how the grit you start at affects the color tone of the finish. I always use fairly well worn micro mesh for this type of polishing just to be careful.
    From the appearance of those scratches around the top of the bowl, I'd say that some level of restaining will almost certainly be required if they're to be completely removed. To my eye, they look to be in the 240/320-grit range, but photos can be deceiving. If that is indeed the case, then 1500 MM (roughly equivalent to 400-grit paper) would be the best place to start.
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  3. #13
    PSU Member Dunstan Hillwell's Avatar
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    thanks very much for the great advice, Dave and Anthony. The damned thing is that I am pretty shortsighted and these little scratches are invisible to my naked eye. I only saw them when I enlarged the photo.
    If I am going to restain, don't I have to restain the whole bowl in order to get the colour to match..?
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  4. #14
    PSU Member Piffyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dunstan Hillwell View Post
    If I am going to restain, don't I have to restain the whole bowl in order to get the colour to match..?
    If you don't have a lot of colors to work with and some good experience with wood stain, then yes, it's best to restain the entire stummel for the best overall match. Work in thin transparent layers to build the color slowly. Of course, you'll need to apply a layer or two more to the worked over areas because they'll be lighter to start with, but it should all blend together after a good buff.
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  5. #15
    PSU Member Dunstan Hillwell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piffyr View Post
    If you don't have a lot of colors to work with and some good experience with wood stain, then yes, it's best to restain the entire stummel for the best overall match. Work in thin transparent layers to build the color slowly. Of course, you'll need to apply a layer or two more to the worked over areas because they'll be lighter to start with, but it should all blend together after a good buff.
    I have 10 bottles of Fiebing's but very little experience, so I'll go for the restaining of the whole stummel. On the other hand, I sanded the rim down to bare wood and just gave it a thorough buffing with a 30 year old BBB pipe wax and that coloured the rim nicely, so maybe I'll be lucky once more.
    Thanks for the very good advice.
    In tabaco veritas et fumo ergo sum
    (Masperius the Elder)

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