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Thread: Stem Repair - Tips, Ideas And Experiments

  1. #21
    PSU Member holymolar's Avatar
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    I just saw this on the Gorilla glue website:

    "Introducing new Gorilla™ Super Glue, the first super glue that keeps holding strong, even when the bond takes a hit--we call it our Impact-Tough™ Formula. Just hold in place for 30-60 seconds while the formula sets, no clamping necessary. It's what makes Gorilla™ Super Glue, so, well, super.
    IMPACT STRENGTH– unique rubber particles increase impact-resistance and strength to handle everyday use after your repair or creation is set."

    Sounds great. But I still would like to test the strength against other methods.
    I still remember from years ago, in my marketing/advertising class, the professor said
    "Often times, advertising is deceptive, half-truths, and sometimes out-right lies".
    Last edited by holymolar; 07-05-2014 at 15:31.

  2. #22
    PSU Member JoeMan's Avatar
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    I've compared the gorilla glue / charcoal repairs to repairs with JB Weld, simply by using the pipes I did repairs on. Both have held up well in comparison, but I FAR prefer the gorilla / charcoal recipe...which a good friend (over on the Grabow forum) actually came up with himself while experimenting with several things, just as you're doing. While we all know most of these stems we repair are actually hard rubber, the JB Weld repairs are IMHO not nearly as good; the repaired area is softer than the hard rubber. In addition, when filing and wet sanding it down...JB repairs 'give easier' than the rubber, which leads to the repair not being quite level with the surrounding area, so it will not look so hot, especially if you're picky. Don't get me wrong...the repair will hold. However...the gorilla / charcoal formula once set up responds equally to filing and sanding. Then there is the buffing. JB repairs typically do not buff up nearly as nicely as what you see above; the gorilla / charcoal repairs (so long as you've done your proper prep work with filing and wet sanding) buffs up just about identically as the stem itself. The stem above does NOT have any wax on it...you're looking at a stem which was filed, wet sanded (4 or 5 grits), then buffed with brown Tripoli and then White Diamond.

    As for set up. Gorilla glue will not set up and be ready enough to file / sand nearly as quickly as when mixed with charcoal. I have done gorilla alone, and usually wait overnight before working it. They often need multiple layers, because there's not as much substance once dried, as compared to mixing with a solid/powder. I will likely never do another glue-alone repair, not after better than a hundred repairs with charcoal. The gorilla / charcoal mix is hard and ready to start shape-filing in 30 minutes. A couple other reasons I like this recipe. So long as you rid your stem of every bit of oxidation, it should be as black as night...and the charcoal matches wonderfully. Also, I believe that the charcoal lends more strength to the repair, because while it is actually tiny particles in powder form, those tens/hundreds of thousands of particles are each being joined to each other, and until shown otherwise, I believe that the bonding of the surface areas of those many thousands of particles within your repair makes for a very strong material (as with your powder repair as well). While I'd not say these repairs are unbreakable, or that a very thin-walled bit repair would hold up to heavy biting / clenching for long...I can say that I have yet to break one of my own repairs...and I've kept a lot of pipes with these bit repairs.

    One other tip. I also use this same recipe when drilling out a broken tenon and inserting a new one into a stem; it allows you a few minutes to get it set in place, but then is ready to be pushed in / pulled out of the shank just several minutes later.

    I'm willing to bet that the 3rd example you shared above gives similar results to what I do. Let us know once you do a big ol' missing-chunk type repair!
    Last edited by JoeMan; 07-05-2014 at 16:59.

  3. #23
    PSU Member holymolar's Avatar
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    Thanks Joe.

    I just picked up some Gorilla Super Glue at Home Depot. The package claims that it sets in 10 seconds. But that's probably when it is very thin, as when glueing two pieces of something together. I already have some activated charcoal.

    I'll continue experimenting.

    Joyal
    Last edited by holymolar; 07-05-2014 at 19:14.

  4. #24
    PSU Owner dmcmtk's Avatar
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    Keep us posted guys. I think this thread should become a "Sticky" in the resto forum, just some great ideas and imformation for people to reference.

    DC

  5. #25
    PSU Member JoeMan's Avatar
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    Dave, good idea. Maybe Joyal can revise the name of the thread, since it may become a repository of 'stem issue repair' ideas / tips, etc.

  6. #26
    PSU Member Reborn Briar's Avatar
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    Great write up, Joyal & Joe and another new discovery.

    Joe - Just wondered why you opted for the black superglue with the plastex and furniture powder as opposed to the liquids that are made for those products? Have you tried them with their proprietary liquids?

    Also wondering if the best "powder" to use would be the filings from an old vulcanite stem? You would then be using original vulcanite powder which should give the same strength and close colour match? Biggest problem would be the filing to accumulate the dust. Any ideas on quick dust production and collection?

  7. #27
    ADMINISTRATOR St. Bernhardt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmcmtk View Post
    Keep us posted guys. I think this thread should become a "Sticky" in the resto forum, just some great ideas and imformation for people to reference.

    DC
    Great idea! I've stuck the thread!
    With kind regards, Bo


  8. #28
    PSU Member holymolar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reborn Briar View Post
    Great write up, Joyal & Joe and another new discovery.

    Joe - Just wondered why you opted for the black superglue with the plastex and furniture powder as opposed to the liquids that are made for those products? Have you tried them with their proprietary liquids?

    Also wondering if the best "powder" to use would be the filings from an old vulcanite stem? You would then be using original vulcanite powder which should give the same strength and close colour match? Biggest problem would be the filing to accumulate the dust. Any ideas on quick dust production and collection?
    Good ideas, Alan
    I'll run some experiments with those liquids and try making some vulcanite dust, then post my results.

  9. #29
    PSU Member holymolar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARMY MOUNT View Post
    Great idea! I've stuck the thread!
    Thanks Bo,

    Can the title be changed to
    "Stem Repair (tips, ideas, experiments)" ?

    Joyal

  10. #30
    ADMINISTRATOR St. Bernhardt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by holymolar View Post
    Thanks Bo,

    Can the title be changed to
    "Stem Repair (tips, ideas, experiments)" ?

    Joyal
    Done
    With kind regards, Bo


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